Day 2 · Paris
Place du Tertre
Step 1 · Before you enter · ~15 sec

Place du Tertre

★ 4.5 (19,661) Maps ↗

You’re standing in a square that still works like an open-air studio. Look around and you can see why artists come here, because this place is part street scene and part working market.

Stand outside · play the audio first, then read on.

Step 2 · The story · ~2 min

Why this place matters

Place du Tertre grew out of Montmartre’s old village past, when this hill was separate from Paris and later became a magnet for painters, poets, and musicians. Today, it is still set up as a living artist market, with small assigned pitches and a rule that keeps the focus on paintings, portraits, caricatures, and silhouettes, so the square stays tied to real working artists instead of only souvenir stalls. If you come early in the morning or later in the day, the light is better and the square feels calmer before the crowds build. For a slower family visit, wander a few steps onto Rue Lepic or into the side streets, where the cobbles, the slope, and the old Montmartre feel are easier to notice. One thing to look at right now is the line of easels and the way each artist has just a tiny space, as if the whole square has been divided into little stages for making art.

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Step 3 · Going in

Here's how

Best time to visit

Go early, ideally before 11 a.m., or after 5 p.m., because the square gets packed once the artists’ easels are out and the light is better then too. Daytime is when the artist market is actually active, but the edges are calmer at those times than in the middle of the day.

Recommended route

Walk in loosely from Abbesses or Blanche and keep the visit unforced; this is a place to drift, not a site to queue for. Start at the square, then peel off toward Rue Lepic or the side streets for a quieter read on Montmartre, and skip a portrait unless everyone genuinely wants one.

Tap ⓘ at the top right anytime for hours, address, prices.

Look at this · 1 of 5

Artist pitches

Where to find itStand in the middle of Place du Tertre and look along the edges of the square, especially where the easels are set close to the café fronts.

Look forTiny, tightly assigned stalls with one artist’s work displayed in a very small footprint.

Why it matters · This is the square’s defining rule: it still operates as a working artist market, not just a decorative photo stop. The cramped spacing tells you how regulated and competitive the place is, which is easy to miss if you only glance and move on.
Look at this · 2 of 5
Portrait row

Portrait row

Where to find itWalk to the busiest side of the square where visitors are sitting for drawings and look for the artists facing open sketch pads or boards.

Look forPortraits, caricatures, and silhouettes being made on the spot.

Why it matters · Those are the only kinds of art allowed here, so the square has a narrower, more old-school production line than it first appears. Watching it happen explains why Place du Tertre feels both theatrical and unusually formal.
Look at this · 3 of 5
Rue Lepic turnoff

Rue Lepic turnoff

Where to find itLeave the square by the nearest opening toward Rue Lepic and stop once the crowd thins after a few steps.

Look forA quieter street rhythm, with fewer easels and more ordinary Montmartre façades.

Why it matters · This is the fastest way to see what the surrounding hill feels like beyond the performance of the square. Without stepping off the main patch, you miss the more lived-in Montmartre that the tourist crowd tends to flatten.
Look at this · 4 of 5
Cobbled slope

Cobbled slope

Where to find itLook down at the paving stones as you cross the square and the short lanes that feed into it.

Look forUneven cobbles and a gentle but real incline.

Why it matters · The surface is part of the place’s character, and it also changes how the square feels to walk. It is manageable, but it is not the kind of surface you want to tackle in a hurry or when tired.
Look at this · 5 of 5
Side-street pause

Side-street pause

Where to find itAfter crossing the square, take one of the narrow side streets for a minute or two before turning back.

Look forA sudden drop in noise and a less staged street view.

Why it matters · Place du Tertre is useful as a starting point, but the best contrast is the short step away from it. That pause shows you Montmartre’s village-like side, which is easy to miss if you stay only in the central square.
Photo gallery

What it looks like

Almost done · before you leave

Spot these

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Done · time to eat

Nearby eat & drink

Filters

Section
Price
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Type

Specialty coffee

Third-wave roasters & quality espresso (worth a walk)

Coffee & bakery

Casual cafés and bakeries closest to here

  • Kozy

    5 min walk
    ★ 4.8 (8.769) €€ Brunch Restaurant
  • Café des Deux Moulins

    10 min walk
    ★ 4.0 (8.241) €€ Restaurant

    Traditional-style bar & cafe for classic French fare, known as a location for the film "Amélie."

  • Immersion Montmartre - Brunch & Coffee

    5 min walk
    ★ 4.9 (3.941) Brunch Restaurant
  • La Boîte aux Lettres

    3 min walk
    ★ 4.7 (2.454) €€ French Restaurant

    Creative but unpretentious French mains, salads & cakes at a cozy bistro with a robust wine list.

  • Pain Pain

    6 min walk
    ★ 4.4 (2.413) Bakery

    Acclaimed bakery offering bread, cake & pastries, as well as sandwiches.

Lunch

Sit-down lunch spots

  • Bouillon Pigalle

    9 min walk
    ★ 4.6 (55.626) French Restaurant

    Popular casual bistro serving traditional French mains & desserts with house wines by the glass.

  • Kozy

    5 min walk
    ★ 4.8 (8.769) €€ Brunch Restaurant
  • Café des Deux Moulins

    10 min walk
    ★ 4.0 (8.241) €€ Restaurant

    Traditional-style bar & cafe for classic French fare, known as a location for the film "Amélie."

  • Le Poulbot

    1 min walk
    ★ 4.7 (6.929) €€ French Restaurant

    Characterful hole-in-the-wall for traditional fare like French onion soup, duck confit & snails.

  • Le Moulin de la Galette

    4 min walk
    ★ 4.4 (5.156) €€€ French Restaurant

    Housed in an old mill, this restaurant serves French classics in a cozy dining room or a terrace.

Dinner

Where to land in the evening

  • Kozy

    5 min walk
    ★ 4.8 (8.769) €€ Brunch Restaurant
  • Café des Deux Moulins

    10 min walk
    ★ 4.0 (8.241) €€ Restaurant

    Traditional-style bar & cafe for classic French fare, known as a location for the film "Amélie."

  • Le Poulbot

    1 min walk
    ★ 4.7 (6.929) €€ French Restaurant

    Characterful hole-in-the-wall for traditional fare like French onion soup, duck confit & snails.

  • Le Moulin de la Galette

    4 min walk
    ★ 4.4 (5.156) €€€ French Restaurant

    Housed in an old mill, this restaurant serves French classics in a cozy dining room or a terrace.

  • Sacrée Fleur Montmartre

    9 min walk
    ★ 4.8 (3.599) €€ French Restaurant

    Trendy takes on French classics like escargot, frog legs & foie gras, in a rustic-chic dining room.

Quick grab

Fast food & takeaway for when you just need something fast

Familiar chains

For the "we just want a Big Mac" moment.

Practical info

Address Pl. du Tertre, 75018 Paris, France
Time 10:05
Suggested 70 min
Rating 4.5★ (19,661)
Map Open in Google Maps

More about this place

Go early, ideally before 11 a.m., or after 5 p.m., because the square gets packed once the artists’ easels are out and the light is better then too.[2] Notice the tiny, tightly assigned artist pitches and the old-school rule that only paintings, portraits, caricatures, and silhouettes are allowed; then step a few minutes away onto Rue Lepic or toward the side streets to catch the quieter Montmartre feel that most people rush past.[1][6] Place du Tertre matters because it still works as a living artist market, not just a pretty square, with a long-standing system that keeps the square tied to actual working painters rather than pure souvenir stalls.[1][6] For Claudiu, Roxana, and Melek, the best move is a relaxed walk-in from Abbesses or Blanche, keep expectations loose, and skip a portrait unless you all genuinely want one; the cobbles and slope are manageable, but they are awkward with tired feet and a full day of sightseeing.[2][5]