This château grew out of a fortress, but the story that really shaped it belongs to women. Diane de Poitiers added the bridge and gardens, then Catherine de’ Medici took over and raised the great gallery above the water, so what you see here is really a tug-of-war made into stone. Stand here and notice how the gallery stretches across the river like a covered street, with the Cher moving underneath. Then glance at the two gardens, because Diane’s and Catherine’s layouts still show their very different tastes. If you came early, you get the calmest moment of the day, the best light on the arches, and a chance to take it in before the rooms and gallery fill up.